流畅的攀登－－让你进入状况的五种方法
Flowing over stone-- 5 ways to get your head in "the zone"
From Climbing Magazine
by Marc Taylor
As I started climbing it was as if something took over that was beyond conscious thought. My hands and feet located holds like they had minds of their own, and each move flowed into the next. Although I had visited this wall hundreds of times, it was easier to traverse than ever before."
“当我开始攀登的时候，似乎有什么意识之外的东西开始接手。手和脚就像自有意识般地放到适当的位置，每个动作都流畅地接续到下个动作。尽管我已经来到这面岩墙好几百次了，这次的横渡却比之前任何一次都轻松。”
Perhaps you can recall a time when everything just "clicked," and you were totally absorbed in the climbing. If so, you have experienced one of the greatest "highs" of sports: the flow state, often described as "being in the zone." Those who have been there describe an almost mystical experience that results in, among other things, increased confidence, heightened awareness, total concentration, and near-effortless movement. The following tips will help you experience flow more often and with greater intensity every time you touch rock.
也许你能想起某次当所有事情都很顺，而你全神贯注于攀登的经验。如果这样，那么你就经历了攀登中最棒的经验：流畅的状态，通常也称为“进入状况”。经历过的人描述这种近乎神奇的经验会带来自信心增强、意识力提升、注意力完全集中、以及几乎不费力的动作。下列的提示能帮助你更常体验到流畅的感觉，并且使你在每次接触岩壁时更加专注。
Seek a challenge-skill balance. This is the golden rule of flow. If your hardest route is 5.10a, spending all day attempting a 5.12 will only result in frustration. Conversely, you'll likely get bored climbing a 5.6. Instead, seek routes that are both challenging and attainable. For example, you might best experience flow while climbing a 5.9.
寻求技巧与挑战性之间的平衡。这是流畅度的黄金准则。如果你最难的路线是5.10a，那么即使花费一整天去尝试5.12也只会带来挫败。反之，爬个5.6又会让你觉得无聊。因此，请找些既有挑战性又有能力完成的路线。例如在爬5.9的时候可能让你觉得爬起来最顺畅。
Set achievable, process-orientated goals. Process-orientated goals stem from the activity itself, rather than external factors. The goal of executing a perfect layback is more conducive to flow than wanting to burn off your partner or impress a spectator. Achievable goals are in your direct control. "Not grabbing the quickdraw in the middle of that scary runout" is achievable, whereas "sending the route this try" is not.